Rising from the Abyss
Business is not always smooth, but the most important thing is to never give up hope. The owner of the “Vị” restaurant chain has proven the saying: Challenges are not meant to defeat us but to teach us how to rise stronger.
By Đặng Hoa
In the serene, Northern-inspired ambiance of Vị Hà Nội restaurant on a chilly winter morning, Đặng Trung Dũng offers his young guest a bowl of authentic Hanoi-style pho, freshly bought from his favorite shop on Hàng Than Street. He cherishes Hanoi pho for its refined, clear broth—a perfect balance of fresh ingredients, intricate cooking techniques, and the chef’s remarkable patience.
“This exquisite taste captures the soul of Hanoi,” Dũng says with conviction.
For him, cuisine must intertwine with culture. A meal is not only about taste but also the story behind the dish, the ambiance, and the emotions it evokes. It is the connection between flavor, memory, and cultural essence that transforms a meal into a profound experience.
Today’s bowl of pho, enjoyed in Vị Hà Nội—a restaurant generating billions of dong in monthly revenue—takes him back to the difficult days of the Covid-19 pandemic. Back then, he and his wife often shared a 35,000 VND bowl of pho because it was all they could afford. He even quit smoking—not so much for his health, but because his pockets were empty.
It’s hard to believe that not long before, Dũng had been running a thriving restaurant chain catering to international customers and managing a travel company with over 300 employees. The pre-pandemic years were a golden era: his restaurants were always bustling with foreign diners, and his travel business was flourishing.
The Crisis
Dũng vividly recalls the turbulent moments. In early March 2020, as Covid-19 began to spread in Vietnam, he was in Saigon launching Home Saigon—the first southern restaurant in his chain. He planned to close the restaurant on March 15 and return to Hanoi due to the escalating pandemic. However, his plans were abruptly derailed when a positive Covid-19 case was detected in his alley just two days before his flight. Stranded for over six weeks, he survived on a stockpile of food with a single staff member.
Once the lockdown lifted, Dũng returned to Hanoi with unshakable determination. He and his team pivoted quickly, transforming a restaurant previously serving foreign tourists into a café aimed at the domestic market, as international tourism ground to a halt.
Investing nearly 600 million VND from the company’s reserve fund to revamp the restaurant was a bold gamble amidst widespread uncertainty. Yet, Dũng and his team poured their hearts into the project, personally sourcing items and remodeling the café. He remembers purchasing a Barringtonia tree for just over a million dong, though transporting and planting it on an upper floor cost ten times more. That same tree now provides shade to thousands of diners and stands as a silent witness to the restaurant’s journey.
The café received strong support despite the pandemic’s complexities. Dũng organized events like stand-up comedy shows and collaborated with cultural groups to enhance its appeal.
“When I decided to switch from restaurants to cafés, I realized that adapting sometimes requires letting go of old models,”
Dũng reflects.
However, just two months later, Hanoi reimposed strict lockdowns. Thankfully, Dũng’s decision to prioritize reserve funds over profit-sharing allowed his business to sustain itself for another year.
Each morning, he brewed coffee and read books, hoping the pandemic would end soon. Weeks turned into months. Living in a confined space while filled with plans for growth was mentally exhausting. To stay positive, he occasionally stood on his second-floor balcony, humming songs into the silent streets.
Back to Basics
During this time, his family’s rural farm became a lifeline, supplying fresh fish and vegetables. His tour guide card also qualified him and his wife for a state support package of 7.4 million VND—enough to cover basic expenses for a month. Seeking peace and lower living costs, they decided to return to the countryside.
Life slowed down. Every day, Dũng fished, often catching 30-40 kg. What they couldn’t eat, they shared with neighbors. Initially, he was plagued by worries about his business. However, over time, fishing became therapeutic, allowing him to reflect and refocus.
“Spending a year fishing taught me that stability and sustainability must come first in business,” Dũng shares.
Revival
When the pandemic subsided, Dũng returned to Hanoi in April 2022. The city was littered with “For Sale” and “For Rent” signs on shuttered restaurants and properties. Rather than despair, he saw opportunity. Rental prices had plummeted, and he began scouting for affordable prime locations.
Despite dwindling finances and mounting bank debts, he was bolstered by friends who helped him repay significant loans. Their support reignited his determination.
The reopening of international tourism was another beacon of hope. Dũng quickly reactivated his Hanoi restaurant, which still had its core furnishings intact, with only minor renovations needed. On May 25, 2022, the restaurant reopened, regaining its status as a popular destination.
Expanding the Vision
Building on the success of Vị Hà Nội, Dũng launched two more locations in 2023: Vị Sài Gòn on May 19 (coinciding with President Hồ Chí Minh’s birthday) and Vị Huế on December 22. Each branch captures the distinct essence of its region while remaining united in the mission to elevate Vietnamese culinary heritage.
Vị Huế stands out as a pioneer of sustainability in Vietnam’s green restaurant movement. Operating with zero waste, it avoids single-use plastics, reuses materials, and integrates local ingredients into its dishes. Its goal is to achieve the Michelin Green Star recognition for sustainable dining.
“My dream is to build a sustainable restaurant chain that contributes to Vietnam’s tourism ecosystem and development,” Dũng shares.
A Legacy of Resilience
Dũng’s story is one of perseverance, adaptability, and purpose. From the turbulence of the pandemic to the revival of his business, his unwavering spirit has guided him through challenges. Supported by friends, mentors like LuxGroup Chairman Phạm Hà, and his team, he continues to redefine Vietnamese cuisine while staying true to his values.
“Dũng places hope at the forefront,” Hà says. “He’s a visionary with a deep passion for elevating Vietnam’s culinary culture.”
From the humble days of sharing a single bowl of pho to building a thriving restaurant chain, Dũng’s journey serves as an inspiration to never stop striving, learning, and growing.
